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Can you provide a little more insight into how much you had to trim from the dust shields?
It’s not much, there’s still a lot of dust shield left.

You just need to trim the outer edges off where it curls back to wrap around the outer edges of the smaller original rotors, and a couple small areas around the two bolt holes on the knuckle where the caliper attaches.

I’d say that overall, the trimming is pretty minimal, and not worth the hassle of pulling the knuckle/wheel bearing to swap over to the Type S dust shields.
 
It’s not much, there’s still a lot of dust shield left.

You just need to trim the outer edges off where it curls back to wrap around the outer edges of the smaller original rotors, and a couple small areas around the two bolt holes on the knuckle where the caliper attaches.

I’d say that overall, the trimming is pretty minimal, and not worth the hassle of pulling the knuckle/wheel bearing to swap over to the Type S dust shields.
Thanks for the reply.

What kind of metal is the dust shield made of? Pretty easy to trim? What’d you use to trim it?

Any chance of bending the curled edges instead of trimming?
 
Thanks for the reply.

What kind of metal is the dust shield made of? Pretty easy to trim? What’d you use to trim it?

Any chance of bending the curled edges instead of trimming?
It’s steel, I cut it with an angle grinder and hit the edges with a metal file to get rid of any sharp edges.

No, the dust shield needs to be cut to make the necessary clearance for the larger rotors and calipers.
 
A bit late to the party but I just did the same Type-S brake conversion. I wanted to install the full size backing plate but I really didn't want to pull the hubs and replace the bearings. The way I did this was by taking a bit driver ratchet with a phillips #2 and breaking all 3 bolts loose. After they were loose, I could take them out by hand. I then proceeded to cut the section of metal that went behind the caliper off with some tin snips. This piece just wraps around the knuckle and doesn't really do anything other than make the dust shield round. With this cut, I was able to slide it off of the knuckle with the hub still installed. I made a similar cut on the new dust shields and they were able to slide back on. Installed the same way I took them off. Easier than I was expecting. I included some photos of anyone is interested.
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Any pictures with the new calipers?
Finally got them installed tonight. I tore everything down after I got all the parts only to find out they sent me 2 front right brake pipes instead of a left and a right. The bags were labeled 46335-TGZ-A01 and 46336-TGZ-A01 however they were both the 46336-TGZ-A01 parts. I got them direct from my local Acura dealership too. Goes to show that you should always check your parts before you begin, even if it's from Acura...

Anyway, I just got everything installed and drove them around to bed them in. They do shed quite a bit of dust as you can see in the photos. I had just fully washed my car about 2 days before starting the install. Maybe this was just from bedding them in but we will see. They clear the 19" wheels from the Advance just fine, tight but they fit.


(Side note, I bought the car with 11k miles and the curb rash was already there)
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Update on the brake upgrade. I had a bit of a noise issue as described from the Acura TSB B23100A, so I decided to apply some brake grease to the pins and to the sides of the pads. Upon removing the caliper bolts, I found that they were not very tight. When I installed them, I had heard that the torque spec was 50lb-ft. After finding the bolts to be loose, I looked deeper for a torque spec and the most reliable info I can find is from BC Auto on YouTube. He states that the torque is 101lb-ft. I ended up torquing the brake calipers to this torque along with some blue Loctite and the noise is now gone. Anybody that may have torqued to 50lb-ft may want to check up on this to see if they have loosened up.
 
Update on the brake upgrade. I had a bit of a noise issue as described from the Acura TSB B23100A, so I decided to apply some brake grease to the pins and to the sides of the pads. Upon removing the caliper bolts, I found that they were not very tight. When I installed them, I had heard that the torque spec was 50lb-ft. After finding the bolts to be loose, I looked deeper for a torque spec and the most reliable info I can find is from BC Auto on YouTube. He states that the torque is 101lb-ft. I ended up torquing the brake calipers to this torque along with some blue Loctite and the noise is now gone. Anybody that may have torqued to 50lb-ft may want to check up on this to see if they have loosened up.
that' hott!
 
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