Great upgrade. They look awesome!

 

Looks really good. I'd love a brake upgrade on my 18 aspec. How much did this cost you, all in, if you don't mind me asking?

 

With everything it cost about $1100

But here is what you need to do that retrofit

NOTE: I upgraded the brake hose to stainless steel braided. So you can either get the one from the dealer OR have a shop fabricate one.

Driver Brembo Caliper: 45019-TGZ-A01
Passenger Brembo Caliper: 45018-TGZ-A01
Front Brembo Brake Pads: 45022-TGZ-A01
Driver Brake Shield: 45256-TGZ-A01
Passenger Brake Shield: 45255-TGZ-A01
Front Brake Rotors (2): 45251-TGZ-A01
Driver Brake Pipe: 46336-TGZ-A01
Passenger Brake Pipe: 46335-TGZ-A01
Brake Hoses (2): 01464-TGZ-A00
Driver Brake Bracket: 46427-TGV-A00
Passenger Brake Bracket: 46426-TGV-A00

 

Fucking suhweeet!!

 

Interesting, this is the first time I realized they're a one piece design. I wonder when Brembo outer shell went from two piece clamp construction to a monocoque one that houses the 4-piston assembly, improves strength of the shell. And thanks for providing a reference parts listing too.

Out of curiosity, when re-flushing the brake fluid, did you disconnect the battery per the FSM? Only item that stood out as strange to me, as I was concerned a traditional gravity flush wouldn't work with the additional brake systems present, and would have to use a pressure or vacuum bleeder.

And here's a good video for anyone that may want to DIY themselves, though apparently not recommended good practice to use a slide hammer to split the journal bearing in half, better to punch out entirely if possible, and press back in.

 

Since the new TLX are electric brake, the process we did was:

Ignition On pump 5 times
Then Bleed
Ignition Off pump 5 times
Repeat that process 5-6 times

 

I'd still like to know if the Type-R front Brembos will fit. 13.75" rotor, 4 pot Brembo caliper and lots of aftermarket support for Type-R in general. Many 2 piece rotor options to save some weight too.

 

Type R will not. The knuckle are different. The brake hose on the Type R and Type S are different as well.
I also contacted GiroDisc to make a custom 2 floating rotor. They got a set of Type S rotor and will be developing them for the Type S soon.

 

Looking good how about the brake lining? Will that be a problem in the future or just for the meantime and complete the job when is available?

 

I prefer the braided stainless steel vs the stock rubber brake hose. Braided last longer and the overall hose size diameter is identical at -4.
Until now, my stock brake lines are still back order from Honda due to supply shortage

 

Yeah, I understand my TLX muffler is back order too and no date. Brake I am very careful because once upon a time, my mechanic switch my master cylinder with a different one and I wind up in an accident, that is what alleged me to pop the questions.

 

Also I am thinking about to upgrade my brake like yours but mine is 2019 model, don't know it is worth the try or just wait couple of years change it to Type S, right?

 

Try www.fastbrake.com They have retrofit BBK kit for the 2015 - 2020 TLX or if you want a complete set up without any mix and match try www.rotora.com they have full set up for the TLX front and rear BBK set up

 

Thank you and I will check them out.

 

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Sweet looking ride!!! Might have to get me a BBK for my A-Spec.

 

I bought the same setup after seeing this, question I have is, when you remove the wheel hub, can you put it back on without removing the inner bearing? When putting the hub back on, is there a certain way to do it? I am getting mixed signals on brake bleeding for these electro servo brake systems, can you just bleed it like normal?

 

Here is a YT video on how to do the install

The process to bleed the brake is

Ignition On pump 5 times. Then bleed. Then ignition off. Then pump 5 times.
Repeat that process 4-5 times.

 

Too many mixed signals and I go by not worth it advise, since my 2019 have electrical problem and dealer could not fix so they offer me the Type S which come with the brake, so I feel better this way. Don't want to involve with upgrade and wind up get an accident then insurance will not cover because of the brake fail.

 

I did a few canyon run and some autocross for almost 6 months now and so far its been holding up. But I just upgrade to these 2 piece rotor from GiroDisc as they did a 1 off prototype set up as I do quite a few track day on my TLX.

 

I did a few canyon run and some autocross for almost 6 months now and so far its been holding up. But I just upgrade to these 2 piece rotor from GiroDisc as they did a 1 off prototype set up as I do quite a few track day on my TLX.

View attachment 27746

I don't drive as much anymore after retirement. But the disc looks good. And it made for Acura TLX Type S.

 

Hey beautiful set up man. Just wondering before I purchased these parts. Will this set up fit for a 2020 Acura TLX a spec 3.5l

 

This only works for 2021 - Up model.
if you want to do a big brake kit conversion that is straight bolt on you will try Rotora

 

Hey kb1spec, I will be installing my brake kit this week, but I can’t find torque specs on the caliper bleed nipples or the caliper bolts. Could you help me out?

 

Hi there
Unfortunately I do not have the torque spec. Best is to go here on YT and you can message them for the spec.

Thank You

 

Got mine installed today. Key on, 5 pumps and hold, bleed, release, then key off and pump 5 times, then top off brake fluid worked fine. It took about 3 cycles of that on the inside bleeder nipple and another 3 cycles on the outside bleeder nipple, so yeah like 5-6 times like you said kb1spec. No issues. No CELs and they work fine. Although I will say that I do not notice that much of a difference between these and the stock 2.0L brakes, but they sure do look alot better! Thanks for the help. Funny side note, AHC garage said in their video that the retainer screw holes on the Type S rotor do not line up to the 2.0L hub…but if you rotate the rotor 180 degrees they line up fine, so there is only one orientation where the rotor fits and the holes line up.

 

I did this on my A-Spec over Christmas break, and it’s a worthwhile upgrade IMO. Much better braking performance (seriously, the brakes are SOLID now), and a pretty straightforward and easy install.

FWIW, I just cut my stock dust shields because I didn’t want to pull the hub to swap the dust shield on from the Type-S.

 

I cut my brake dust shields too. I have had previous cars where the dust shield didn’t wrap all the way around the hub, so it shouldn’t be an issue. I just cut and painted them so they wouldn’t rust and with everything installed you can’t tell anyways. Several people were commenting that the way AHC split the hub is really bad for it. I didn’t want to fool with any of that either. Haha, great minds think alike!

 

Can you provide a little more insight into how much you had to trim from the dust shields?

 

It’s not much, there’s still a lot of dust shield left.

You just need to trim the outer edges off where it curls back to wrap around the outer edges of the smaller original rotors, and a couple small areas around the two bolt holes on the knuckle where the caliper attaches.

I’d say that overall, the trimming is pretty minimal, and not worth the hassle of pulling the knuckle/wheel bearing to swap over to the Type S dust shields.

 

A bit late to the party but I just did the same Type-S brake conversion. I wanted to install the full size backing plate but I really didn't want to pull the hubs and replace the bearings. The way I did this was by taking a bit driver ratchet with a phillips #2 and breaking all 3 bolts loose. After they were loose, I could take them out by hand. I then proceeded to cut the section of metal that went behind the caliper off with some tin snips. This piece just wraps around the knuckle and doesn't really do anything other than make the dust shield round. With this cut, I was able to slide it off of the knuckle with the hub still installed. I made a similar cut on the new dust shields and they were able to slide back on. Installed the same way I took them off. Easier than I was expecting. I included some photos of anyone is interested.

 

Any pictures with the new calipers?

 

Finally got them installed tonight. I tore everything down after I got all the parts only to find out they sent me 2 front right brake pipes instead of a left and a right. The bags were labeled 46335-TGZ-A01 and 46336-TGZ-A01 however they were both the 46336-TGZ-A01 parts. I got them direct from my local Acura dealership too. Goes to show that you should always check your parts before you begin, even if it's from Acura...

Anyway, I just got everything installed and drove them around to bed them in. They do shed quite a bit of dust as you can see in the photos. I had just fully washed my car about 2 days before starting the install. Maybe this was just from bedding them in but we will see. They clear the 19" wheels from the Advance just fine, tight but they fit.


(Side note, I bought the car with 11k miles and the curb rash was already there)

 

Great work. Look awesome!

 

Super late but got it done on my 23 Aspec. Paired it with brakenetic slotted rotors and man they bite! Best upgrade on the TLX right after the PRL intercooler.