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Discussion Starter #21
My steering wheel heats up on remote start mode, don’t really know what turns it on. But it heats up and the light on the switch is not even on.
 

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My steering wheel heats up on remote start mode, don’t really know what turns it on. But it heats up and the light on the switch is not even on.
I got a 2016 TLX Tech package and was looking to change the steering wheel to the base 2021 TLX steering wheel. You think it would be similar to the retro fit you had to do? Also I’ve been looking online to see if there was one for sale but didn’t see anything, does anyone know if the dealership is selling them yet?
 

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2016 TLX I4 Tech - Fathom Blue Pearl with Blackouts
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Keep in mind that "everything" is different with the 2021 wheel. Even if it would physically mount up, you'd need the wheel, airbag, switch assemblies, clock spring, and wiring harness, then there's no guarantee that wiring connections are the same. Absolutely not worth the expense and hassle in my opinion, especially with the airbag difference (a key safety item).
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Make sure if you buy one to try it, you are able to return it if doesn’t work. I assume it would be more difficult from what I did due to it being a completely new car. Also the new RDX steering wheel looks the same as the new TLX, that could be another option.
 

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2016 TLX I4 Tech - Fathom Blue Pearl with Blackouts
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@PRM5 - I've not yet removed the covers to inspect, but you say "There are 2 wires that have to be added to plug in into the new cable reel..." How did you add these to the factory connector? Thanks.

P.S. Does one of your photos show the wires added?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I ordered another steering wheel harness of from a advance package TLX (comes with factory steering wheel heater) part# 77901-TZ6-C10. I then cut the connector and soldered it to the ground and power wires I added and plugged it in on the new cable reel that comes with the kit.
 

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2016 TLX I4 Tech - Fathom Blue Pearl with Blackouts
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Thanks for your reply, but I don't understand. According to the diagram on THIS PAGE, that's the cable harness that comes with the steering wheel kit, and mounts "in" the steering wheel. I assume you had to add your wires to the body-side connector that plugs into the clockspring assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Correct, you need the additional harness just for that 2 pin connector, to plug in the power and ground into the clock spring on the body side. I don’t have pictures of that part of the install, it’s under the steering column cover.
 

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That's an expensive pigtail. I wish I'd known about that when I placed my order. I'm going to Check with the parts guy at my dealership. There may be an actual pigtail available.
 

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Well look at this!
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The install was a success, but not without a couple of hiccups.

1) You do, indeed, need to purchase a second harness (77901-TZ6-C10) for the 2-pin connector. Be aware, however: When wiring the cut connector to provide power to the back side of the new clock spring, the black wire will be positive, and the white one, ground. Reversing the wires results in a wheel that heats any time power is applied (and a non-functioning LED indicator). Fortunately, though, reverse polarity did not release any magic smoke.

2) When removing the switch assembly from the frame of the steering wheel: Be sure to remove the screw securing the LKAS switch bracket to the frame (if present). I overlooked this, and broke the mounting points of the switch. Fortunately, I was able to repair it, since it's held in place fairly well by being "sandwiched" between the frame and cover and is under relatively little stress when activated.

3) When moving the steering angle sensor from the old clock spring to the new one be extra careful to insure it is not installed 180° out. Even though I thought I did it correctly, I somehow got the sensor installed out of phase which resulted in every error message known to man showing up in the cluster display, and once you anger the system overlords, even reorienting the sensor will not calm their wrath. Only an Acura (or Honda) technician with his Wand of Wonders can return the system to normal operation. On a side note, rear-wheel steering causes some really funky experiences when it has a mind if it's own.

EVERY one if these issues can be avoided, and I hope someone else will benefit from my experience.

I'll close with a few pics.

Repurposed relay assembly from an HID lighting kit...
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... installed by tapping an already-existing hole and using a spare metric bolt.
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Constant power came from an existing 30A 1/4" spade terminal in the side fuse box. (Some cars will not have these spots open, so see below for an alternate solution.)
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The 3A fuse is for my radar detector. Switched hot and ground for the steering wheel were connected to the same locations detailed by PRM5 previously.

* NOTE * I later found an open ignition-only fuse position in the main fuse box which, if tapped with an add-a-fuse assembly, should eliminate the need for a relay.
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For reference, the other open position is a constant-hot source.

Prior to the install, I arranged the parts in the same order as the instructions, and laid out all the tools which helped as I went along. Not shown is the battery-powered impact that I used to remove and install the steering wheel bolt. This kept the steering wheel centered more easily. Also, don't be surprised if the steering wheel puller isn't needed. My wheel began to move off when I simply turned the puller bolt by hand. I suggest giving it a try before messing around installing the puller.
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Note: I ended up with the steering wheel re-installed by the dealer prior to putting the lower cover back on, so I had those two cover screws left over at the end. That's not entirely a bad thing, though, as the cover clips in place securely, and if ever I need to remove it again, the steering wheel doesn't need to come off.

For comparison: New A-Spec wheel (left) vs. the original (right):
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I think the previous owner must have used ArmorAll or something similar on the steering wheel. It was very slick and shiny by comparison.

Anyone considering this mod and having questions, fire away, and thanks again to PRM5 for being the first guinea pig.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Congratulations on your successful install, mine was a little different since it’s a base model with no LKAS. I had to cut out the original back side wheel cover for the heated steering wheel switch to fit. As far as the steering angle sensor, I used a piece of tape to hold it in place. Wish I would have used a Aspec wheel too, I didn’t want to risk more fitment issues at that time.
 

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2016 TLX I4 Tech - Fathom Blue Pearl with Blackouts
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Thanks. I have no idea how I screwed up the angle sensor, as I removed it and reinstalled it immediately and with the units side by side. However it happened, it was an expensive mistake. (As would have been the LKAS switch, had I not been able to fix it. I got lucky on that one.)
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Now on to figuring out how to make the heated seats to come on on remote start mode.
 

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Now on to figuring out how to make the heated seats to come on on remote start mode.
That one requires upgrading to the ADVANCE package, I'm afraid, since they're computer-controlled. :-/
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Well the heated steering wheel only came in the advanced package also! I’m thinking of adding a switch to control the seat heaters only on remote start mode
 

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I'll be interested to see what you determine. Since the wheel has its own integrated control, and requires only power, it's relatively easy. The seats, though, may also have localized control, and if the control stack is simply activating relays, there may be a way. 👍
 

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I am absolutely digging my heated wheel!
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