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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
June 2020 bought a new TLX A spec 2.4. Around 15,000K steering wheel started to shake when applying the brakes, 2,000K later the shaking became evident. I took it to the dealership and they said the front rotors are warped and it is due to braking habits !!
I don't agree with their assessment, braking habits, as I am gentle on the brakes also 15,000K is too early for such a thing to occur.
I have reported this to NHTSA as a manufacturer defect and potential safety hazard.
Please if you have such an issue with your TLX report it to NHTSA so they can have the brake rotors repaired and fixed under warranty.
 

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Let me ask a few questions:

Are you the original owner?
What was the mileage when you purchased it?
Was this a demo or salesmen car?
How long have you owned it?
What type of driving do you do? All city, all highway, or 50/50?
Do you live in a hilly area? Tow anything? Keep the vehicle loaded down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Let me ask a few questions:

Are you the original owner?
What was the mileage when you purchased it?
Was this a demo or salesmen car?
How long have you owned it?
What type of driving do you do? All city, all highway, or 50/50?
Do you live in a hilly area? Tow anything? Keep the vehicle loaded down?
Original owner, car had 75 miles when purchased.
Owned since June 28, 2020
Driving is probably 60% high way 40% city, my average MPG for the whole duration is 25 mpg
I live in Northern VA flat area mostly some hills no mountains.
I mostly drive the car to and back from work just myself, nothing extra in the car and I don't tow anything .
May be 5 times I had two bikes on a bike rack for a very short distance 5 miles each way.
I have almost 40 year experience in driving.
 

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Are you the only one that ever drives it?

My wife got a new civic in 2010 and at around 20K she had the same problem and they told her the same thing. After she told me that it could not be her driving she didn't do jack rabbit starts or ride her brakes.

So I rode with her a few times and knew exactly why it was her. She had to maintain her speed right up to the light or stop sign before putting on the brakes. She never slowed down early even if the light was already red.

Between her driving and the known fact that Honda has always used thin rotors, thus the problem with warped rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Are you the only one that ever drives it?

My wife got a new civic in 2010 and at around 20K she had the same problem and they told her the same thing. After she told me that it could not be her driving she didn't do jack rabbit starts or ride her brakes.

So I rode with her a few times and knew exactly why it was her. She had to maintain her speed right up to the light or stop sign before putting on the brakes. She never slowed down early even if the light was already red.

Between her driving and the known fact that Honda has always used thin rotors, thus the problem with warped rotors.
I'm the only one that drives it, and my driving style is not aggressive I don't slam on the brakes when I am expected to stop, at the light is gradual slow down then stop.
 

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The bottom line is that since this is not a known problem for this vehicle at this mileage, Honda has to assume that that driver has done something wrong. I realize that for you to prove you didn't becomes a very difficult argument. My suggestion would be: Keep your receipt and should warped rotors become a TSB or common problem, then you would have standing for a refund for the repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The bottom line is that since this is not a known problem for this vehicle at this mileage, Honda has to assume that that driver has done something wrong. I realize that for you to prove you didn't becomes a very difficult argument. My suggestion would be: Keep your receipt and should warped rotors become a TSB or common problem, then you would have standing for a refund for the repairs.
I agree, that is why I am encouraging anyone that is having similar problem to contact NHTSA and report it as a manufacturer defect.
Anyone can use this link to report a defect.
Report a Safety Problem | NHTSA
 

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Correct - contacting NHTSA would be the right thing to do.
 

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Never understood how rotors warp. I got the dealers (Nissan and Honda) to fix under warranty. In fact I got Nissan to do it 2x. I warp rotors within 20,000 miles on every automatic car I’ve owned. Strangely enough, every stick car has been fine. Last stick car went over 100,000 miles never having the rotors turned. By the way, I’m a foot off the gas 1/4 mile before the red light type of guy. Some have told me that pressing the brakes at a red light when the rotors are hot will deposit brake pad material on the rotors causing them to be uneven. Ok, if the road is flat, I won’t hold the brake at a red light in a stick. But what else can you do in an auto, put it in park at every red light?
 

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Never understood how rotors warp. I got the dealers (Nissan and Honda) to fix under warranty. In fact I got Nissan to do it 2x. I warp rotors within 20,000 miles on every automatic car I’ve owned. Strangely enough, every stick car has been fine. Last stick car went over 100,000 miles never having the rotors turned. By the way, I’m a foot off the gas 1/4 mile before the red light type of guy. Some have told me that pressing the brakes at a red light when the rotors are hot will deposit brake pad material on the rotors causing them to be uneven. Ok, if the road is flat, I won’t hold the brake at a red light in a stick. But what else can you do in an auto, put it in park at every red light?
That sounds really great for you. Maybe you could tell smk729 how you did it and save him some money.

I currently have 63K miles on my 2018 TLX and my rotors are fine.

I do know that when we were driving Hondas, not only were the rotors to thin and warped easily but most of the time they couldn't be turned because of how bad they were warped.
 

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That sounds really great for you. Maybe you could tell smk729 how you did it and save him some money.
I was persistent. With Nissan on the second time, the dealer that did it the first time refused to resurface the rotors a second time. I just kept going to different dealers until I found one who would do it. With Honda, they really pressured me for unneeded services that I just wouldn’t accept. I did cave and let them flush the brake fluid which was almost due anyway and I hate doing myself.
For now (I’m out of warranty) I’ve just accepted that I warp rotors and I bought the tools and via YouTube, learned how to replace them myself. Just did the back rotors on the accord over 4th of July weekend. They were $25 each for decent after market ones. (I saw some as low as $17 each) Fronts are $30+ but even Brembo front rotors are only $59. The back ones are more difficult to replace than the fronts, but the fronts are the ones that typically warp. I’ll do the fronts in a year or when they warp next. Prices for 1st gen TLX should be similar.
 

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Honda puts poor performing rotors/pads on most of their vehicles, Type-S/R excluded. I'm not sure what type of driving Honda/Acura has in mind, but all it takes is one trip down a long, steep mountain road and they'll start vibrating. My limited understanding is it comes down to a combination of how much heat the pad material can tolerate and how well the rotor dissipates heat.

The vibrating could also be caused by not following the manufacturers brake bedding procedure. A quick search and you can find a number of pages relating to brake bedding: bedding brake pads - Google Search

Installing quality aftermarket rotors/pads will perform much better and should last a lot longer. Some dealerships offer aftermarket options since most people don't want Honda/Acura rotors/pads after they have had the same experience as you.
 

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Are you the only one that ever drives it?

My wife got a new civic in 2010 and at around 20K she had the same problem and they told her the same thing. After she told me that it could not be her driving she didn't do jack rabbit starts or ride her brakes.

So I rode with her a few times and knew exactly why it was her. She had to maintain her speed right up to the light or stop sign before putting on the brakes. She never slowed down early even if the light was already red.

Between her driving and the known fact that Honda has always used thin rotors, thus the problem with warped rotors.
I am sure the dog house was fun when you told her about her driving!! I just politely asked if we were turning one time (when the turn signals were not on, but I knew we had to turn) and I got that stare!!
Good luck!!
 

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I am sure the dog house was fun when you told her about her driving!! I just politely asked if we were turning one time (when the turn signals were not on, but I knew we had to turn) and I got that stare!!
Good luck!!
I don't get "the stare," she unloads with; "her driving is perfect and if I don't like it, I can always walk."
 
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Never understood how rotors warp. I got the dealers (Nissan and Honda) to fix under warranty. In fact I got Nissan to do it 2x. I warp rotors within 20,000 miles on every automatic car I’ve owned. Strangely enough, every stick car has been fine. Last stick car went over 100,000 miles never having the rotors turned. By the way, I’m a foot off the gas 1/4 mile before the red light type of guy. Some have told me that pressing the brakes at a red light when the rotors are hot will deposit brake pad material on the rotors causing them to be uneven. Ok, if the road is flat, I won’t hold the brake at a red light in a stick. But what else can you do in an auto, put it in park at every red light?
Lot of times a hot rotor that goes thru a puddle gets instantly cooled will warp it.
 

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The main reason brake rotors warp is sudden changes in temperature, let's say your brakes are hot after hard braking or driving a twisty road, then you hit a pond, if water hit the brakes that's enough to warp the rotors, it can happen at 100 or 20K miles.
 

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For now (I’m out of warranty) I’ve just accepted that I warp rotors and I bought the tools and via YouTube, learned how to replace them myself. Just did the back rotors on the accord over 4th of July weekend. They were $25 each for decent after market ones. (I saw some as low as $17 each) Fronts are $30+ but even Brembo front rotors are only $59. The back ones are more difficult to replace than the fronts, but the fronts are the ones that typically warp. I’ll do the fronts in a year or when they warp next. Prices for 1st gen TLX should be similar.
I've had the same issue as the OP (only with my 2015 TLX Adv SH-AWD). I think I'm braking gently and only when needed (i.e., not riding the brakes, especially on long downhills), but after having the dealer turn the rotors at around 20k miles, I'm now at 40k and they're saying the rotors need to be replaced. With only 40k miles in 6 years, and most of those being highway miles on cross-country trips, I'm very disappointed with the factory brakes.

Would you be willing to share a link or two to the best YouTube videos you found on doing this work yourself? I'd love to try Brembo or something similar. Thanks!
 

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I've had the same issue as the OP (only with my 2015 TLX Adv SH-AWD). I think I'm braking gently and only when needed (i.e., not riding the brakes, especially on long downhills), but after having the dealer turn the rotors at around 20k miles, I'm now at 40k and they're saying the rotors need to be replaced. With only 40k miles in 6 years, and most of those being highway miles on cross-country trips, I'm very disappointed with the factory brakes.

Would you be willing to share a link or two to the best YouTube videos you found on doing this work yourself? I'd love to try Brembo or something similar. Thanks!
There are more than you can count. I liked this one.
 

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Thanks for sharing that!
To do my rear brakes on my accord I bought the tools and parts listed below. Keep in mind that the rotors/pads listed are accord specific also that the front pads and rotors are different part numbers than the rears on every car, the fronts are bigger/heftier. Also that I already had basic tools like screwdrivers, pliers, a drill, hammer, a metric wrench set and a 3/8 metric socket wrench set. I also had the impact screwdriver that most people with just basic tools won’t have.

Bosch Brake Pads

Centric Rear Brake Rotors

A lot of these tools that I bought from Harbor Freight and Amazon are not 100% necessary I just bought them because I'm not as young as I used to be.

Jack Stands

Pittsburgh expandable 1/2 inch ratchet

Pittsburgh Impact Socket Set (Metric)
1/2 Inch Impact Wrench

1/2 inch extensions

Disc Brake Caliper Piston compressing tool (only needed when you are doing rear brakes)

Torque Wrench 1/2 inch

Wire brush drill attachment

I got the silicone paste and brake cleaner spray from Advance Auto.

I do have the thread locker paste and anti-seize compound that the guy in the video referenced, but I elected not to use either. I believe that if the caliper bracket bolts (which didn’t have thread locker from the factory and weren’t easy to unscrew) are torqued to specs, they’ll stay. Also I know I’ll be changing rotors (fronts at least) every 2 years so they won’t get stuck on. The rear rotors were 6 years old with 63k miles on them and they came off relatively easily so again, I didn’t think I’d need the anti-seize compound.

this whole job took me 4 hours, but like I said, I’m not exactly young, and although I’ve done brakes before, I never did rotors, so I wanted to take my time to make sure I did everything correctly.
 
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