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I am many months away from my first oil change but I wanted to see what other people planned on doing about their oil changes. Such as taking it to the dealer, taking it to a general automotive shop, or doing it yourself?I guess I am more curious about those who will be doing it themselves and what oil and filters you plan on using. I have been using Mobil products for quite some time now but have been leaning towards switching to Royal Purple products.

What does everyone else plan on doing and using?
 

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I am many months away from my first oil change but I wanted to see what other people planned on doing about their oil changes. Such as taking it to the dealer, taking it to a general automotive shop, or doing it yourself?I guess I am more curious about those who will be doing it themselves and what oil and filters you plan on using. I have been using Mobil products for quite some time now but have been leaning towards switching to Royal Purple products.

What does everyone else plan on doing and using?
I just take mine to the Acura dealer. For my TL SH engine oil/filter change and tire rotation is $49. My Acura dealer includes 2 years free maintenance so I won't have to worry about it for my TLX for quite some time. To me, OEM service by dealer with synthetic oil and filter change for $49 seems very reasonable if yours has a comparable price.

Most if not all Honda and Acura products have a drain bolt crush washer that needs to be replaced each time the drain plug is removed - they sell in bags of 50 on Amazon. See Honda info below - pretty sure their viewpoint for Acura products will be same. If an Acura dealer does your oil change - you are assured it will be replaced.

Oil & Filter FAQ for Honda Vehicles | Honda Maintenance

Of the choices listed, dealer would be my first choice if price is reasonable. Our company cars are all Honda/Acura and the oil change prices between Honda and Acura dealers are almost the same in our area with the Acura dealer sometimes being cheaper.

I don't have any experience with Royal Purple products, but Mobil is a top tier brand. Likewise, I have never had an issue with Honda or Acura dealer oil/filters either. It seems odd to me that the dealer doesn't have a free normal maintenance period - but that's what I'm used to I guess

Good luck!
 

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I will be switching to Mobile 1 synthetic at the first oil change, which most likely be in about 3 month time. All my cars I have owned in the last 20 years have been running on Mobile 1 synthetic and I am a huge fan. Already told my dealer that I would like to have this option available and they said that would be no problem at all.
 

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I will be switching to Amsoil synthetic XL 0W-20 on my first oil change. Already purchased six oem Honda oil filters and a bag of 25 crush washers. Each oil change will cost me about $30. All other services will most likely be done at the dealer. I use Amsoil XL in all my vehicles. Will replace when the oil life monitor is around 10%.
 

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I'm on the dealer side of the fence. It's just easier. One day, I would like to do my own. My dad has always run Amsoil extended life synthetic oil and filters and it's worked well for him.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks to everyone so far for the information!

I have always done my own oil changes so that I know for sure what has gone into the car. Regarding the crush washers, I have a bag of about 20 as my last vehicle was a Honda that used them as well. That should last me longer than I plan on keeping the car. I say this because I will probably only drive it 7,500 miles a year which would only call for a single oil change a year :)

For me going to the Acura dealership is more of an inconvenience as they are just over a 30 minute drive away...unless a Honda dealership that is 10 minutes away can do it. I have some ramps that I use to change the oil on all of my cars and be done in less than 30 minutes.

I have heard about Amsoil being good but never did much research on it. I definitely will after it was mentioned more than once :)
 

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Has anyone done their own oil change on the TLX?

My 99TL was a burnfest trying to get to the filter without losing an arm, but my 07TL is very easy....everything is easy to reach. Just wondering how easy the job is on new TLX. Don't have one (yet) but may be soon.

I usually do it myself, but will bring to dealer if they have specials or if I need other work at the same time.
 

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I see the TLX has switched to 0W-20 as opposed to my old TL which I believed used 5W.
My understanding is that 0W was to improve fuel mileage. If you care less about saving fuel and are more concerned with engine longevity, can you use the heavier 5W-20 for better protection?
 

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I see the TLX has switched to 0W-20 as opposed to my old TL which I believed used 5W.
My understanding is that 0W was to improve fuel mileage. If you care less about saving fuel and are more concerned with engine longevity, can you use the heavier 5W-20 for better protection?
5W-20 is fine in all Honda/Acura J35 engines.
 

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I am a big fan of one stop shopping, so the dealer gets all my msintenance business.

I performed one oil change in my life. Went just fine, but not worth the hassles to save a few $$$ on a $50k car...

IMHO
 

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Oil changes

I'll let the dealer do the oil changes but I bring my own oil, all my vehicles have Mobil 1 in them. After taking a few oil analysis courses and doing some automotive repairs my self I'm a firm believer in this oil. I usually wait till the oil goes on sale at Canadian tire then I stock up. I use the Honda/Acura oil filters as in one of the courses they did an oil filter analysis and the honda filters out performed almost all of the others. On one of my old vehicles I actually had a fram filter collapse so no more fram in my lifetime.
 

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I'll let the dealer do the oil changes but I bring my own oil, all my vehicles have Mobil 1 in them. After taking a few oil analysis courses and doing some automotive repairs my self I'm a firm believer in this oil. I usually wait till the oil goes on sale at Canadian tire then I stock up. I use the Honda/Acura oil filters as in one of the courses they did an oil filter analysis and the honda filters out performed almost all of the others. On one of my old vehicles I actually had a fram filter collapse so no more fram in my lifetime.
Do you do this for performsnce, or longevity/risk reduction? And why doesnt your dealer offer Mobil 1? To be honest i have not even thought about the brand of oil...

Thanks
 

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Do you do this for performsnce, or longevity/risk reduction? And why doesnt your dealer offer Mobil 1? To be honest i have not even thought about the brand of oil...

Thanks
I do this for 2 reasons, the first is reliability of the engine (clean inside of the engine and proper lubrication reducing wear.) secondly I buy the oil when it goes on sale usually for around $28 per 4.4L jug, which if I let the dealer supply it would be around the $50 mark. (just the oil cost).
 

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Oil is a feel good issue and all about marketing. The quality of any brand name oil and certifications they have to meet are such that even non-synthetic oils will not ever be the reason you have an engine die before 250,000 miles as long as you follow the oil life reminder schedule. Moble 1, Amsoil, have done a great job getting people to throw away perfectly good cheaper mineral oil. A giant waste of money but since I own oil stocks go right ahead and change your oil as much as you want. There is also no reason synthetics should cost twice as much as mineral oil except they advertise it will last twice as long. I use Mobil 1 in the Merc because it voids the warranty if I don't??? Yes, I know all the reasons synthetic IS a better lub and will result in "less wear" but really I drove my TLS hard for 86000 miles and traded it in for the TLX and used castrol 10-30 (110 DEGREES IN THE SHADE) the whole time. I could have used home depot oil or "remanufactured oil" and as long as it had SN,SM,SL,SJ on the label the result would have been the same.
 

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Oil is a feel good issue and all about marketing. The quality of any brand name oil and certifications they have to meet are such that even non-synthetic oils will not ever be the reason you have an engine die before 250,000 miles as long as you follow the oil life reminder schedule. Moble 1, Amsoil, have done a great job getting people to throw away perfectly good cheaper mineral oil. A giant waste of money but since I own oil stocks go right ahead and change your oil as much as you want. There is also no reason synthetics should cost twice as much as mineral oil except they advertise it will last twice as long. I use Mobil 1 in the Merc because it voids the warranty if I don't??? Yes, I know all the reasons synthetic IS a better lub and will result in "less wear" but really I drove my TLS hard for 86000 miles and traded it in for the TLX and used castrol 10-30 (110 DEGREES IN THE SHADE) the whole time. I could have used home depot oil or "remanufactured oil" and as long as it had SN,SM,SL,SJ on the label the result would have been the same.
Agreed, but when you change the conditions like we have in Canada, -45c to +40c you want an oil that will still have a pour point at -45 and won't drop out the waxes like regular mineral oil will. Also with regular oil on a microscopic level you have all difference sized particles but with a true full synthetic all the particles are the same size to provide better lubrication reducing wear.

I know what my decision is, but just putting in my 2 cents😄.
 

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Keep in mind that the Honda/Acura oil that the dealer uses is a semi synthetic oil. Not a full synthetic. A semi synthetic uses approximately 70% regular dino oil and 30% full synthetic oil. Personally, I've seen too many engine not properly broke in by switching to a full synthetic oil too soon and then using oil later on. I prefer to stick to the semi synthetic and then move to Mobil 1 around 12 or 15K.
 

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What oil filter to use for your TLX

Oil Filters – the most commonly replaced mechanical item on your car. Its job is to filter the oil in your car. There are lots of brands, colors, and prices for filters. You easily have about a dozen good filters to choose from for your 3.5 liter TLX. Rumors, myths, and your buddies will tell you what filter they believe to be good, or what will ruin your car immediately if you should decide to use it! Others will tell you to only use an Acura OEM filter as any other filter will void your warranty, not true; See Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Who makes the Acura OEM filter? Is it the best filter for your car? What about synthetics, which filter is best for that? I will try and help you answer these questions.

I am a master tech and have been on retainer for both Jiffy Lube and Valvoline Quick Oil change stores for the last ten years. Currently still on retainer with Valvoline. I have been involved with many oil and oil filter disputes/litigation and have cut apart many a filter and sent close to 50 or 60filters and oil samples to the laboratory for analysis. The research below comes from numerous manufactures, Boris the Oil Guy, and personal research.

Clearly, there are no BAD oil filters on the market today that will ruin your engine! But, people that have been around cars for a long time all have a buddy that will tell you don’t ever use a FRAM, Purolator, WIX, or add your favorite filter name here as it ruined an engine. With almost 100% certainty, the oil filter did not ruin his engine.

Listed below are the numerous and most common oil filters available for the V6, 3.5L 3471cc engine. Thesefilters also fit the Pilot, Odyssey, and the Accord V6. Always double check with the parts catalog or online to make sure these are the correct part numbers and that nothing has been superseded or changed. If you find a correction, please email me and I’ll update this listing.

I did not list the burst pressure, micron rating, GPH rating, and so forth. For the stock Acura 3.5L engine, it really doesn’t matter. For the daily driver, any of the below filters will work adequately on your vehicle. The order of the filters listed below have no special significance.

K&N – HP1010 Probably the best filter out there for the Acura. It has a large 17 mm nut welded on the bottom of the filter for ease of correct torque installation and ease of removal. Compatible with all synthetics. Approximately $15. ***** (5 Stars)

Mobil 1 – M1-110 Extended Performance Filter – This filter utilizes synthetic fibers and supposedly works best when used with Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. Approximately $14 at most Advance Auto Parts Stores, WalMart and other stores. This filter appears to be exactly the same as the K&N above but without the 17mm nut. Normally the K&N is $1 or $2 more than the Mobil 1. Notice the part number similarity? Claims to filter 99.6% of contaminants. ***** (5 Stars)

Below are the two Acura OEM filters for our TLX. One ends in A-02 and the other ends in A-01. Here is the difference:
The A-02 is a Honeywell/FRAM filter identical to the ToughGuard $5 filter.
The A-01 is the Filtech with the thermo bonded media ends and no end caps about a $6 filter.

Acura 15400-PLM-A02 – The original Honda/Acura oil filter. Your best bet is eBay. 10 filters with crush washers are buy it now for $45. When you add in the $12 shipping, you are paying $5.70 for a filter & crush washer (with S&H) each. Smaller and larger quantities are available on eBay. Manufactured by Honeywell. These are OEM Honda/Acura filters. *** (3 stars)

Acura 15400-PLM-A01 – The newer Honda/Acura oil filter. A bit better filter than the A02. **** (4 stars)

Royal Purple CHF-10-2867 – Some people are big believers and swear by ‘Royal Purple’ and therefore want the Royal Purple oil filter too. These filters run about $15 each. Pep Boys carries these filters. It appears they are manufactured by Champ labs (same company which makes K&N and Mobil 1 filters). They are an excellent filter. ***** (5 Stars)

AMSOIL Oil Filter – EA15K13-EA – Features synthetic nanofiber technology, guaranteed for up to 15,000 miles or 25,000 when used with AMSOIL synthetic motor oil. These filters run about $16 each. ***** (5 Stars)

WIX 57356 – A good brand that many local auto parts stores have in stock. Price can range from $7 to $10. **** (4 Stars)

FRAM – There are numerous FRAM filters listed for the Acura TLX vehicle:
Xtendedguard – XG7317 (3 Stars) – Claims a 97% dirt catching ability. Designed for long life.
Toughguard – TG7317 (3 Stars) – Claims a 99% dirt catching ability. A reasonable mid line filter. Same as the OEM Honda/Acura filter.
HighMileage – HM7317 (1 Star) – Claims a 95% dirt catching ability. Includes in the filter a gel additive for your oil. You really don’t want this additive in your Acura.
Doubleguard – DG7317 (2 Stars) – Claims a 95% dirt catching ability.
Extraguard – PH7317 (2 Stars) – Claims only 95% dirt catching ability. The cheap orange filter we all know.

Most of these FRAM filters can be purchased at Walmart or some other local auto parts store. Cost will run you between $5 and $10 depending on which filter you choose. The FRAM HighMileage has a gel additive which is PTFE or rather Slick 50 (Teflon) which is a solid. I would stay away from the HighMileage filter. The PTFE tends to bond with areas of low flow instead of areas of high friction. FRAM has recently discontinued the use of PTFE in their DoubleGuard filters and probably will for the HighMileage soon too.

Purolator – L14610 – This is a name brand filter that has been around for a long time. These can be found at various auto parts stores with a cost of around $8. There are two qualities of this filter, one is called the Purolator Classic and the other is the Purolator Pure One. **** (4 Stars for the Purolator Pure One) *** (3 Stars for the Purolator Classic).

Beck Arnley – 041-0812 – Beck Arnley uses a lot of the same manufactures that the OEM’s use and it tends to change all the time. It's sometimes difficult to know who they are using to make their filters from one day to the next. Quality is always reasonable. Price will be around $8. *** (3 Stars)

Bosch – 3323 - Another main brand of oil filter. This filter will cost you about $9. Robert Bosch has been around a long time. Their top of the line filter is called the Bosch Distance Plus. ***** (4 Stars).

NAPA – FIL 7356 Gold Oil Filter. WIX makes the NAPA filters. NAPA lists various filters that end in 356. The standard filter is a paper element and the NAPA Gold is a cellulose. These filters will sell for between $6 and $10, but occasionally NAPA will run a sale and bring the price down a dollar or two.
NAPA Gold *** (3 Stars)
NAPA Silver *** (3 Stars)
NAPA Platinum **** (4 Stars)

Car Quest – 84356 Another WIX product, I’m told that on the box of every Car Quest filter it will say WIX Filtration. They have two lines of filters being Blue and Red. The Blue is their premium line. Their premium line will run about $8. **** (4 stars)

Motorcraft FL822 – Another name brand oil filter. These can sometimes be found at Walmart and other mass merchandisers. Alternative part number is F32Z6731A. Certainly a good filter. Somehow just doesn’t look right to have a Motorcraft oil filter on an Acura. Either way, a good solid filter. **** (4 stars)

AC Delco PF2057 – The filter choice of Mr. Goodwrench. They claim a 98 percent single pass filtering with a cellulose media. Again, like the Motorcraft filter, it just seems odd having an AC filter on an Acura. *** (4 Stars)

MANN ML1008 – Another filter manufacturer that makes a respectable filter. Not as popular as some of the others, but still a good filter. **** (3 stars).

So, there you have it, the oil filter run down. But now let’s go back and answer some of the tough questions. These answers are just my opinion.

What filter should I be using? If you are going to be using the factory Semi Synthetic blend (OEM factory) oil and follow your MM (Maintenance Minder) in your Acura then any of the above filters 3 stars or better should be your choice. Keep in mind that the OEM Factory Semi Synthetic blend oil is about 30% synthetic and 70% regular Dino oil.

What if I want to run Mobil 1, or some other synthetic? Keep in mind, that your MM (Maintenance Minder) has no idea what quality oil you are running. It does not sample your oil to decide how much life is remaining. It uses mileage, RPM, WOT, idle time, temperature and other factors to determine how much oil life you have left. I would use any of the above filters 4 stars or better.

What if I want the VERY BEST filter for my TLX? I would use any of the 5 star filters above. The K&N with its 17mm welded on nut seems like it would help installation with correct torque, and uninstallation. The K&N brand is the street racers favorite right now.

Won’t a $5 FRAM (Orange Filter) work? Sure it will work!

Any special tips about the oil filter? Don’t over tighten. Check for leaks before you drive away. Clean the mounting boss with a clean rag before installing a new filter. Always stick with the oil filter manufacturers part number. Some people try and find the biggest filter that has the same gasket diameter and mounting threads on the logic that it will have more filtering capability. This trick can void your warranty because the check valve pressures or other specs will likely be different.

How tight should I make my oil filter? There is a torque specification for this, but when I was attending various training by the OEM manufacturers, they recommended that you install spin on oil filters as tight as you can with your bare hand. Unless you are Gorilla Jim, it’s virtually impossible to over tighten an oil filter using just your bare hand.

Do I need to prime my oil filter to prevent dry starts? Not really. Most vehicles have their oil changes when the oil is hot or the vehicle was just driven into the shop, therefore the engine parts are covered with a fresh layer of engine oil. The one to two seconds it takes for oil pressure to move through the filter is insignificant. I’m not aware of any engine ever being damaged by not priming the oil filter.

How do I know if Jiffy Lube or some other quick oil change shop really changes the filter as opposed to just wiping it clean? This is a big problem and many shops have been caught doing this. My suggestion is to take a good marker and sign your initials on the filter. You can then easily tell if the shop changed the filter or not.

Can I change my own oil and filter and still be covered by the Acura or other extended warranty? Absolutely Yes. Just make sure to keep some sort of record when you changed the oil in case there is an oil or filter issue.

How long should I leave the oil drain plug out to drain the oil? Normally when there is one drip every 10 to 15 seconds. Too often shops in a hurry put the drain plug back before all the old oil has drained out.

Where are the best deals to be had for filters? Check Amazon, eBay, Walmart, and your local parts stores. Sometimes buying in quantity can get you a better price or at least reduce the shipping and handling cost.

I was not able to include every filter manufacturer. If you want to use some other brand, just do a little research and you can find all the information you want on any filter. If you have any further questions let me know. Likewise, the ratings on the various filters are my opinion only from the research I have done.

Should I use a magnetic oil drain plug?
Everyone should be using a good magnetic oil drain plug. Even by their own advertising, no oil filter catches 100% of the particles in the engine. The smallest particles are metal particles and they can hurt your engine. Remember the oil gets picked up from the oil pan, goes through the oil pump and then the oil filter. This means that metal particles can get into the oil pump and a few other places. Using a magnetic drain plug will remove the last bits of metal particles in the engine. Even with the Acura 3.5 Aluminum engine, the moving parts are mostly ferrous metal such as piston rings, cylinder walls, crank, cam, etc. I have used magnetic drain plugs and it is amazing what the oil filter does not pick out. There are cheap magnetic drain plugs on eBay, but I prefer the Gold Plug that costs about $18. Just wipe it clean after every oil change.
 

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XLNT information! Thank you for the insight.
 
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