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Discussion Starter #1
(reposting since I could not find original thread and wonder if it actually posted...)

Hey everyone, been humming along with my '15 TLX SH-AWD for 3.5 years now and have had few complaints about the car, so I dropped down to lurking mode on this forum. Thanks for all the helpful information everyone has provided.

I have always loved the quiet and smooth ride while cruising on the highway, but I've recently developed brake shake symptoms which seem to start after the car has warmed up to standard operating temps and applying the brake at over 50mph and it's worse (I think) when it's warmer out. It's likely happening below 50, but perhaps momentum has something to do with the severity of the shaking.

Definitely surprised to have this problem so early especially since the car is always garage kept, doesnt't live in a climate of extremes, and I am not (in my opinion) heavy on the brakes. The pads measure as only slightly worn since I bought the car new. Rotors don't appear to be warped and dealer suggested resurfacing rotors. Any thoughts on what could be causing this? I'm assuming they're saying the rotors can grow imperfections from dust or debris which may cause some shaking as well.
 

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spty0314 - Welcome to the forum. Always glad to see a lurker come out from the shadows.


I also drive a 2015 TLX SH-AWD.


Tell me how many miles on your car?
Do you live in rural or city?
Do you carry any extra weight or tow anything? (Please don't say your wife)
Have you ever had the front brakes or rotors serviced? If so, when and by the dealer or non-dealer?


On the surface, I would say your symptom sounds like warped rotors. Rotors can warp even when your car is garaged and in a pleasant climate. Answer the above and we will go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks @Crashmaster, I was actually around a few years ago, but it appears my account was reset back to 0 :)

Tell me how many miles on your car? I have 31k miles and drives to work (about 15 miles each way) are not in rush hour type traffic.
Do you live in rural or city? A mix since I live on the outskirts of DC.
Do you carry any extra weight or tow anything? My wife's pretty chill so she wouldn't care, but aside from that fact, no I don't :) Usually just daily commuter.
Have you ever had the front brakes or rotors serviced? If so, when and by the dealer or non-dealer? My rear calipers were replaced since I had an e-brake issue where it would squeak when engaging, but the shake started before that point. Nothing to the front and the rotors were never serviced. I did read about how overtightening the lug nuts could cause warping, but they have told me and upon visual inspection, that they are not warped.
 

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OK, nothing in your reply stood out as unordinary except:

but they have told me and upon visual inspection, that they are not warped.”

I’m not aware of any visual inspection that can detect specific rotor warpage without the use of a dial indicator and micrometer.

A warped rotor will normally be caused by extreme heat, riding the brakes or a stuck caliper. Sometimes resurfacing them or sometimes new ones right out of the box will be warped. Symptoms of warped rotors will cause vibration in the steering wheel and/or pulsating brake pedal when applying the brakes.

The test is done as followed: Remove the wheel and preferably the caliper and pads. Set up your dial indicator to ride against the rotor. Rotate the rotor and read the runout. Depending on the type of car and specification, the maximum runout could be anything from 0.001 to 0.003 of an inch. Make sure you move the dial indicator around so that you are getting readings from various places on the rotor. It is also a good idea to remove the rotor to make sure the axle flange (where the rotor mounts to the axle) is flat and smooth. Use your dial indicator to check this for runout too. Often rust will cause surface irregularities but can be easily sanded down and a smidge of anti-seize can be applied to prevent further rusting.

Rear warped rotors will only cause a pulsating pedal and no steering wheel shake.

Keep in mind that a rusted axle flange or bad hub bearing, a slightly bent flange (from hitting a curb or pothole), and even improper wheel lug nut torque will also give symptoms of a warped rotor.

Besides rotor runout with a dial indicator you also need to check the rotors for minimum thickness by using a micrometer. The specification can be found in the shop manual.

Over the years I have moved away from OEM rotors and brakes. Don’t get me wrong, the OEM stuff is good, but I take pride in my work and brake jobs and good is just not good enough. I pretty much only use the Rockauto Power Stop Z23 Evolution brand of pads and rotors. They are drilled and slotted and are the type of brakes that you actually FEEL a noticeable difference, besides having a high-performance look. There are lots of brake brands on the market these days, and many people have their preference, so take what I like with a grain of salt. Many of the Police and Sheriff vehicles here have also moved to this brand of brakes.

If you have any questions, just ask. Perhaps I’ll have ananswer.
 

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I wouldn't anticipate rotors with that amount of mileage being down to minimum thickness, but Crashmaster does make a good point in suggesting you have them checked. My prior Acura, after something like 200k started exhibiting the symptoms of "warped" rotors at highway speeds, and eventually lower speeds. As it turned out the rotors were below the minimum thickness which I believe was impacting their ability to manage heat build-up during braking and that in turn impacted the brake pad material. Whatever the case, I replaced the rotors and pads and the car was back to normal.

Considering your in the DC metro area, it would also be wise to follow Crashmaster's recommendation on upgrading the rotors and pads. I used to commute down there a lot and the constant braking of stop and go traffic can cause issues from excessive heat build-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys, sorry I've been out of town and just got back to this. I'll look into upgrading the rotors and brakes since I intend to keep the car for a while, but first I'll see if I can get a second opinion on what the root cause is. It certainly felt like warped rotors to me since our Mazda3 which sat outside for most of its 7 years came down with them and felt pretty much the same.
 

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(reposting since I could not find original thread and wonder if it actually posted...)

Hey everyone, been humming along with my '15 TLX SH-AWD for 3.5 years now and have had few complaints about the car, so I dropped down to lurking mode on this forum. Thanks for all the helpful information everyone has provided.

I have always loved the quiet and smooth ride while cruising on the highway, but I've recently developed brake shake symptoms which seem to start after the car has warmed up to standard operating temps and applying the brake at over 50mph and it's worse (I think) when it's warmer out. It's likely happening below 50, but perhaps momentum has something to do with the severity of the shaking.

Definitely surprised to have this problem so early especially since the car is always garage kept, doesnt't live in a climate of extremes, and I am not (in my opinion) heavy on the brakes. The pads measure as only slightly worn since I bought the car new. Rotors don't appear to be warped and dealer suggested resurfacing rotors. Any thoughts on what could be causing this? I'm assuming they're saying the rotors can grow imperfections from dust or debris which may cause some shaking as well.
 

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Have been driving a 2000 Acura TL 3.2 since "inheriting" it from my father some 15 years ago. So good I just purchased a 2018 Acura TLX 3 months ago. It had (60,000 km) 35,000 miles on it. Drove from Toronto, Ontario to Orlando. Temp when I left was 32 degrees F and reached some 70 degrees upon arrival. 2 day trip about 500 miles per day. About 7 hours into the second day had to make a hard stop on the interstate (about 70 mph steady driving). The brakes shuddered badly but slowed down without incident. Seems as though braking under 50 mph was not a problem - smooth and safe. Returned to Toronto thinking I should return to dealer of purchase to ask about braking. Tested the car - hard brake at 60 mph and the shuddering was almost none existent.
What's up with that????? Any thoughts that I should pursue?
 

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First of all, welcome to the forum. I'd bring it to the dealer. Since you bought it used, with 35K miles on it, maybe the rotors are warped or the pads worn? Did you get any kind of brake inspection report on the car when you bought it?
 

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First of all, welcome to the forum. I'd bring it to the dealer. Since you bought it used, with 35K miles on it, maybe the rotors are warped or the pads worn? Did you get any kind of brake inspection report on the car when you bought it?
This is an Acura Certified purchase complete with two full pages of items checked. Brake Pad lining thickness is 7 for each front and 6 for each back. Rotor thickness and surface - checked ok. As mentioned, the problem came on with long driving in the heat. Now in the colder weather (around 32 degrees) I don't experience the same problem. Braking is fine.
 
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